The Three Chimneys – award winning restaurant
The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye in Scotland has been winning awards for over thirty years under the ownership of Shirley and Eddie Spear. Then in 2015, they hired MasterChef: The Professionals runner-up Scott Davies as the new Head Chef, who brought his clear, pure culinary style to showcasing the flavours of the incredible local produce.
This approach is encapsulated in the “Skye, Land & Sea” six-course tasting menu, which I tried during a lunch sitting (after enjoying a tasty selection of different fresh breads with flavoured butters).
First Course: Gorse & apple cured scallops
This dish got the meal off to a fantastic start, and was one of my favourite courses. I had not tried cured scallops before, and although their texture was similar to smoked salmon, their taste was far more delicate. The apple pieces and coastal herbs gave the dish a refreshing and fruity quality, which complemented the lightness of the cured scallops perfectly. To finish off the dish, the dollops of roe parfait added a touch of creaminess to cut through the acidity of the apple, and also provided a slightly stronger punch of scallop flavour. A perfectly balanced and refreshing start to the meal.
Gorse & apple cured scallops
Second Course: Cold crab with smoked almonds & yoghurt
While I didn’t dislike this course, I didn’t find it nearly as flavoursome as the first course, and I think that might have been partly due to the temperature of the dish. The crab mixture (made with crab from Loch Dunvegan, just opposite the restaurant) was so chilled, that for me, the flavour of the crab didn’t really come through enough, which was disappointing. The smoked almonds were a nice touch, and added some much-needed texture to the dish, but I can’t help but think that the flavour of the crab mixture and yoghurt sauce would have come through more had they not been quite so cold.
Cold crab with smoked almonds & yoghurt
Third Course: Scorched langoustine with roast sweetbread & smoked mussel ketchup
Presentationally, I thought that this dish was the weakest of the six, as the elements of the dish really took up no more than a quarter of the large plate, leaving it looking very stark. Equally, although I enjoyed the braised fennel, I thought that the fennel-flavoured jelly added nothing to the dish, and I could have easily done without that extra distraction. That said, the langoustine itself (also from Loch Dunvegan) was delicious and the “scorched” flavour in no way overpowered the delicate seafood taste, while the roast sweetbread was cooked to absolute perfection. But for me, the highlight of the dish was the amazing smoked mussel ketchup, which was so packed full of flavour that I could have happily eaten almost any dish built around it.
Scorched langoustine with roast sweetbread & smoked mussel ketchup
Fourth Course: Peat-smoked haddock ravioli with buttered leeks & mushroom dashi
This was perhaps a “love it or hate it” dish, as the peat-smoked haddock had an incredibly strong smoky flavour, that some may have found overpowering or off-putting. Thankfully, I really enjoyed it, and it elevated the dish and made it something quite memorable. That said, the two pasta parcels were a perfectly sized portion, as I think the taste would have become overpowering with a third, and the buttered leaks and mushroom dashi were needed to diffuse some of the smoky intensity. A bold dish that won’t appeal to everyone, but it succeeds in what it sets out to do.
Peat-smoked haddock ravioli with buttered leeks & mushroom dashi
Fifth Course: Soay lamb cooked three ways
This was probably my favourite dish (certainly my favourite savoury dish), and there was not a single unnecessary or extraneous element on the plate. The piece of lamb steak was cooked perfectly and still pink in the middle, but the standouts for me were the black garlic and miso glazed lamb rib (which was sweet, sticky and melt in the mouth tender) and the tube of crispy fried potato strands stuffed with shredded slow-cooked lamb (which was to die for, it was so incredibly flavoursome and rich). The battered anchovy fritter was an interesting, if unexpected, touch which added an extra dimension to the accompaniments, and the whole dish came together wonderfully, even if the slow-cooked lamb and the glazed rib were the highlights.
Soay lamb cooked three ways
Sixth Course: Tart of Scottish honey, lemon & bergamot, with pistachio sponge & white chocolate ice cream
I really wasn’t sure what to expect from a dessert that was described in the menu simply as “Scottish honey”, but this was a revelation, and ended the meal on an absolute high note. The pistachio sponge was incredibly light and fluffy, and the white chocolate ice cream was quite subtle and refreshing, but the tart itself was the highlight; a tribute, perhaps, to lemon meringue pie, the pastry itself was sweet and perfectly crisp, and inside was a sumptuous blend of sweet honey, citrusy lemon and bergamot curd, and sharp crème fraiche. Indulgent without being too rich or heavy, it was the perfect end to the meal.
Tart of Scottish honey, lemon & bergamot, with pistachio sponge & white chocolate ice cream
We ended the meal with coffees and petit fours.
“…a fine-dining experience showcasing local ingredients with a warm welcome…”
Overall impression: Although I felt there were a couple of dishes the maybe needed a bit more work (the crab dish being too cold for me, and the langoustine/sweetbread/fennel dish feeling a bit disjointed), when the dishes worked, they worked exceptionally well – and I could have easily gone back for seconds of the scallops, lamb and dessert. The Three Chimneys is tucked away on the North West coast of the Isle of Skye, and as good as it is, it’s so remote that you’re unlikely to just stumble across it. But if you do find yourself in the area, and fancy a fine-dining experience showcasing local ingredients with a warm welcome (including welcoming younger families, during the lunch sitting), it’s well worth tracking down.
